about uart cable

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Art is personal, as personal as every one of us. But the reality is whatsoever an artist provides is art but it really comes down to if the masses take it or reject it. Here more about uart cable :

Amazon.com: usb uart cable

USB to TTL 3.3V Serial UART Converter Cable with FTDI Chip Terminated by 6 Way Header, Works with Galileo Gen2 Boards/BeagleBone Black/Minnowboard Max and more

FT312D USB Host to UART Cable Application - FTDI

9 Copyright © 2013 Future Technology Devices International Limited Document Reference No.: FT_000839 FT312D USB Host to UART Cable Application Application ...

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How to Make UFS Box Samsung UART Cable

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8 Gedanken zu “about uart cable

  1. Initial testing shows that it seems to work fine. I downloaded the Prolific 2303 drivers, it installed without issue.Minor oddity is my Rx and Tx lines seem to be reversed. In my case, I’m using white for Rx and green for Tx. I suppose it is possible my device (an Adafruit AudioFX board) is mislabeled and it is actually the one that is reversed. I’ll verify that in a bit and update according.1 star deduction for zero documentation. Literally a zip top back with the cable in it. Nothing else. Thanks to the other users here for posting the pinouts.

  2. Pro:- Cheap. Less than $10- Wide OS support. PL2303 is supported by most common OSes- Can be configured for either v5 or v3.3 power output. PL2303 has an on-board DC-DC converter- Converter functions reliablyCons:- Average fit and finish. Converter body easily comes apart and PCB assembly is adequate.- Mechanically unsound. Shield around USB port is unsoldered so repeated usage can result in failure of part.Warning:!!! Open up the converter body and solder the body of the USB port to the pads around the PCB immediately upon receipt. !!!The plug flexes around the USB signal pins and can either result in a bad connection or stress failure over time.Notes:As others have stated the serial converter is 5.5v on the power pin and 3.3v on the logic.The blue case around the USB can be removed easily; it is a push fit case held together by plastic pins so don’t be too rough with it. The PCB inside has an unpopulated through hole for v3.3. However, you will need to cut the red 5.5v wire and solder for 3.3v output.The Prolific PL2303 USB to Serial converter chip has additional pins (RTS, CTS, DTR, DSR, DCD, and RI) exposed if modem function is needed.

  3. Bought two at different times, recommended these to my coworkers, Works okay when built correctly. I got one with solder bridge that shorted 5V (Red wire) to RX line (white wire) resulting in a burned out MCU. I would inspect the next one I purchase by opening up the shell and look for solder bridges, then perform an electrical test with a multi-meter. When plugged into a USB port, you should see the following readings.My Good OnePower Red = 5.016 V correct (within +/-5% of 5V)RX White = 2.16 V correct (correct TTL level for H) 16M Ohm White to Red (RX goes to TX on MCU)TX Green = 2.16 V correct (correct TTL level for H) 16M Ohm Green to Red (TX goes to RX on MCU)Gnd = 3.2M or 2.3M Ohm Black to Red. Based on polarity of probes (due to diode conductance)My Bad OnePower Red = 5.016 V correct (within +/-5% of 5V)*** RX White = 5.016 V incorrect (dead short to 5V) 0.9 Ohm White to Red (RX goes to TX on MCU) ***TX Green = 2.255 V correct (correct TTL level for H) 16M Ohm Green to Red (TX goes to RX on MCU)Gnd = 3.2M or 2.3M Ohm Black to Red. Based on polarity of probes (due to diode conductance)

  4. Worked perfectly to connect my laptop to serial into my Mazda Mazda3. You’ll also need some Dupont wires to extend the connection all the way to your car, of course.

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